Posts filed under 'Product Development'
I’m starting to work through some of the email questions. Since I’ve received a few questions about how to source fabrics and find textile suppliers, I’ll try to give as many tips as I can (and please, everyone jump in with what I miss!).
How to locate suppliers that carry the types of fabrics you are interested in:
- Attend a textile show - you can touch and feel all the fabrics, learn about upcoming trends, and meet the reps in person. You also leave with a trade show directory, a virtual gold-mine for suppliers. This is pretty much how I’ve found all of my suppliers.
- Go to a fabric district - I’ve had some luck this way, but not much.
- Purchase directories of suppliers.
- Search for suppliers online.
Next, call potential suppliers and ask them to send you HEADERS, or swatch cards, and ask if they have a price list and / or website:
- If they don’t have a price list, you can call them back after you have the headers in-hand and talk to them about prices for each.
- They should send you cards with fabric swatches attached to a tag that contains the style numbers, care instructions, and fiber content.
- The headers are important - so that you can see and feel the different options they have before making a
- purchase. They can often inspire your collection.
Purchase sample cuts before placing a production order:
- After you select a few fabrics you’d like to try, you will call them back and ask for “sample cuts for testing”. - get enough to make at least two samples.
- Be very open with them about what you are making (and what price point you were hoping for) - they might have recommendations and options you don’t even know exist.
- Find out the availability of the fabric, some are a standard part of the suppliers line, some are seasonal. This will affect your design decisions, especially as a startup.
- Ask about their minimums, policies, payment terms, and method of shipping.
- Don’t be afraid to ask questions!!!!
Before you actually go to market with production samples, make sure that you have verified the availability of the fabric. Just because a lot was available when you ordered the sample cut, doesn’t mean a lot will be available when it’s time to produce the actual garments (Oh, yes, I’ve learned this one the painful way).
October 7th, 2007
This is an add-on to my last post on Spec Sheets. Ayomide was kind enough to elaborate on her experience with this aspect of the development process in a comment she left on the blog post. I just wanted to highlight what she shared, because she has valuable input from an industry-insider’s view.
She also points out that they called them “Tech Packs”. Here’s what Ayomide had to say on spec sheets:
“I remember doing spec sheets at work. So much information but we called them tech pack, becuase it was like a pack of paper we would send to the manufacture with so much info. We would have the specs, the style #, size range, black and white line drawing, a colored line drawing with the colors called out, art information, with all the colors called out, sometimes send the actual embellishments, and sometimes a swatch of the fabric.”
One of the main things I gather from reading her comment is that if you have a decent enough color illustration, then you don’t need a full prototype. I’m not that good at drawing yet, but creating a prototype works great for me, gives everyone in the process a real picture of the expected outcome. It would be nice to be good enough at drawing to save the time it takes to create a prototype. Practice, practice, practice.
*Also note she refers to the technical sketch as a “line drawing” - I point out these terminology differences because they are useful search terms, industry slang, which we might not think of on our own.
July 21st, 2007
I have to get the tech sketches and spec sheets together for the pattern maker. If I can get this whole concept to come together by the September tradeshow, I will be very excited. I’m just excited to have a concept. So, fashion design spec sheets tell the pattern maker (and everyone else down the line) all the information he/she needs to know about a style. Here’s the information that I need to get together for the pattern maker:
- Tech Sketch
- Finished garment measurements
- Fabrics and Other Inputs that will be used ( buttons, velcro, snaps, elastic, etc.)
- Style #
- Style# to base the style on (blocks or existing pattern)
- Size of Pattern
- Description of Style
- Prototype is ideal!!!
I’m lucky enough to have a couple of patterns from previous designs that I can tweak to get a decent prototype. I’ll be using the same neckline and armholes anyways - so I think it’ll work. I can tweak it enough to get a decent prototype to my pattern maker.
Every time I look at the list of what still needs to happen by ABC Kids Expo, I freak out. Brochures and photographs and catalogs and posters and a mock display setup - pre-show pr and advertising - and then the design and development of the products we want to launch at the show. It’s better to not say all of that out loud sometimes, better to just chink away at the top item on the to-do list.
July 19th, 2007
I came across a great book on fashion illustration last week. It’s called Drawing Fashion Models by Lee Hammond. The book is a part of the Discover Drawing Series, copyright 1999.
It’s an excellent tutorial book for those of us who both have no clue about fashion illustration and need a lot of help with it. It is designed to take you from beginner to master, with each excercise building on the last.
One of the things that I really like about the book is the that the author really focuses on fashion. She talks about tweaking proportions and flattering model positions. She also goes into detail on how to draw all different kinds of fabrics and folds and even lace.
I have a long ways to go before I have anywhere near the drawing skills of the author, but it’s a great kick off for learning the skill. If I could be even just a little bit better at illustrating the fashions I’m designing, then it would streamline our development process. Better drawings would communicate my vision better.
Fashion illustrations, which attempt to show the viewer what the apparel looks like on a model, are different than technical sketches, which show the viewer what the article of clothing looks like when laid flat on a table and viewed from above. It is a technical sketch that you hand over to your pattern maker.
July 16th, 2007
I work with a variety of contractors to get my products produced. I haven’t worked with an all-in-one job shop, where they do everything from pattern making to final production. My contractors are spread around town, and each runs their own business. My pattern maker is in the north part of our county, sample maker / sewing contractor in the middle part of our county and the cutter is in the south part of the county. The blankets are produced by yet another contractor.
I’m not sure which model is best, but this one works for me for now. I definitely have more control over each phase of the process, because I have checks between each phase. I also definitely have more logistics to deal with this way. I could ship my stuff around, but I generally pick stuff up myself. Especially patterns and samples.
I also like talking face-to-face with each contractor at the drop-off point. Whether it’s a quick clarification of my technical sketch or a question about a missing input for the sample (such as fringe that hasn’t come in yet), there are always things to talk about and to clarify.
But, this model also creates sourcing problems at times. Like right now, when one grader / cutter went out of business. I found a replacement grader a few months ago, but now I need to find a replacement cutter. Luckily, my sewing contractor had someone to recommend who he thinks takes small jobs. So that’s where I’ll start.
So, nothing is ever settled or completely “in place”, and this should be seen as a good thing. It means you’re growing and still going.
June 19th, 2007
When you call or visit a textile supplier, one of the first questions you’ll get from them is “what do you do (make, manufacture, etc.)”? They ask you this because they want to help streamline your shopping experience. They also want to keep from wasting time if they are not going to be able to help you.
The more details you can give a fabric supplier, the easier you’re going to make your life. These people are never going to steal designs, they aren’t looking to see your tech sketches or design specifications. When I speak with a supplier, I’m very detailed about what I’m making, what qualities I’m looking for, and what I need. Right now, I’m scouting for jersey-type fabrics. I tell the supplier’s rep that I’m making babywear, I’m looking to make baby tees and body-suits. This doesn’t tell them anything too specific about my design, but it does give them a good picture of what type of fabric I need.
The other bonus to giving specific details is that the supplier likely knows about some fabric choices that you don’t know about. Keep in mind, they want the sales and they want the repeat business. They want you to grow and they want you to stick with them while you do. When suppliers ask you qualifying questions, or tell you they have high minimums, don’t be offended; but do ask them if they have anybody else they would recommend.
It’s a good idea to make a list of everything you’re looking for in a fabric before you call:
- type of fabric
- special care requirements
- price point
- minimums you’ll be able to meet
- specific color or detail requests
June 13th, 2007
Sometimes after you’ve gone through something and left it far behind, you forget what it was like to go through that experience for the first time. Enter our first contractor experience.
It was going to be our first season - I had all the pieces in place, the sample fabrics I needed and the patterns I needed. One tiny little issue was that I was running late in the season - but, not a big deal, starting small, only need a couple of salesman’s samples to make it to market.
Well, the Big Deal was that being late in the season ensured all the *good* sewing contractors were good ‘n busy. Including the ones who were recommended by my pattern maker. I thought, ok - I’ll find someone by calling around, just like I found the pattern maker. So I started calling and finally got the number of a lady who had some experience with children’s apparel.
Called her and she was available. YES!
So, I went and met with her, showed her my patterns and she said she could do it. I was so clueless at this point that I took her the whole rolls of fabric. Expecting her to do the cutting. She didn’t say anything except “OK”. Here’s the mistakes I made, which, by the way, are mistakes that any respectable contractor wouldn’t even have let me make:
- Dropping off the rolls, instead of the cut pieces - why in the world she was ok with this, I have no idea. My current sewing contractor wouldn’t even consider the idea of doing the cutting. He does the sample making and handles the production.
- Not providing prototypes. I expected her to make the samples from the pattern and fabric swatches alone. Everything that you hand over, to any contractor along the stage, has to be VERY CLEAR and VERY ORGANIZED. I had patterns, with fabric swatches attached to the spec sheet, in the order they were supposed to go in (from left to right, staple the fabrics that are used in the item - self, contrast, trim - to the top right corner of your spec sheet). By the time I’m ready for salesman’s samples, I should have a few prototypes to hand over to my sample maker. Basically, give your contractors as many tools as possible to make the job as easy as possible.
- Did I mention I was late in the fashion season cycle? It should have been a red flag to me that she was even available. (I say this because she was a small shop - I’m sure there are large job shops that can handle rush orders). So, with her doing the cutting on top of the sample making, on top of whatever the heck else she had going on, ended up being a disaster.
Now that I’ve owned up to my part, I get to say that she was the worse contractor I’ve worked with yet. Not only did my stuff come back 6 weeks late (yes you read that right), but about 50% of them came back basically re-designed. Different trim on items, even self and contrast backwords. I can attribute some of this to not providing the sample, but why in the world wouldn’t you call and say “you need to come down and show me what you want”?
Needless to say by now, that season didn’t happen - at all. I still have some of those damn samples like a big gray cloud over my head and the kicker is, now that I’m doing a few cash ‘n carry shows, I’m actually selling them off (the few that were made correctly). So, in the end, those things have given me confidence in my designing ability again. That something I designed a few years ago is selling well today. The colors are even still “hot”…which is pretty amazing to me.
I remember being so nervous making those first calls to pattern makers and sewing contractors. I think I was nervous enough that I let it hold me back from asking a million questions. At that point, I was still worried about being new, so I’d work it up in my head to more than it was. Remember this through the entire process - asking questions is a sign of strength, the more you know about something, the more you’ll ask about it.
My current contractor is brilliant, was recommended by my pattern maker, and is patient enough with all my newbie mistakes to help me learn as I go along. I’d love to hear some other experiences, as I’m sure we could all learn from each other’s contracting dramas.
I forgot to mention my poor husband had to go down to the contractor’s when the samples were finally “complete”, so he didn’t even know what was right or wrong (I didn’t provide him with prototypes either). He counted the number of items, handed over the money, scooped up our daughter and the extra fabric, and away he went. And her parting words were “don’t forget about the little people”.
It’s definitely an experience I’m happy to have behind me. But I learned a zillion things about manufacturing, working with people, project management, and setting expectations. And not being late in the season!!!
June 1st, 2007
I’m trying to keep from spreading ourselves too thin. Just as our personalized blankets start rolling I’m off and running with other things. But I need to reel myself in. The blankets are rolling, keep them rolling. We have a good thing going and we’ve finally almost worked through all of the kinks.
I shipped display kits to three different states yesterday! YES!!! This is a big thing for us. This is an exciting thing for us. And I feel good about the kit that we’ve put together, we’ve covered all of the bases, from the redemption brochures to a FAQ sheet.
We have our blankets in one of the hottest San Diego boutiques and I stopped in last week to give them updated brochures. Our blankets had been in the store for a week and she sold one right before I walked in. Which was exciting, and which had raised questions for the boutique. Good questions, because we can now come up for a solution for something we hadn’t thought of on our own.
A friend of mine is considering entering the pet industry and was asking me if I thought it’d be better for her to go through the development of a niche product or just start with graphics on ready-made products. Niche, niche, niche.
I recently heard from friends and family how disappointed they were in me for switching from baby clothing (my first idea behind starting the business) to blankets. They never asked me why I did it, only told me just recently THEY didn’t think it was a good decision on my part.
If they had asked me, they would have known there was a grand plan behind it. That by doing something so niche and so unique, I had a better chance of standing out and getting shelf-space in boutiques. Once I have a relationship with the boutiques, it’s going to be easier to get our clothing line in; rather than competing right off the bat with everyone else.
This isn’t to say, at all, that if you’re doing clothing, you’re not doing something niche. Niche can come down to the style of clothing you’re offering. But I do strongly believe that you have to STAND OUT, you have to offer something unique that the “big boys” aren’t already offering.
Getting the manufacturing process for our personalized blankets figured out was an incredibly lengthy and painful process. There is no such thing as “mass manufacturing” because each name has to have a unique placement on the blanket, based on size of letters and length of name. Not only that, but the blanket has to be assembled after the hand-applique is done, because it is backed and bordered with the same cotton print as the appliqued name. We can not buy a pre-made blanket and hand-applique because I would not be happy with the stitching showing through on the back.
The niche will pay off, and is paying off, because these products are really really unique. This is paying off in a lot of free press for us (without me pitching it yet) and the press is making it easy to get into boutiques. Not to mention building my confidence. And the plan is working, we’re now selling our graphic tees to boutiques who first purchased the blankets. We’ve built trust with them, and the unique, fabulous style is representative of our brand.
Consider what your niche is and focus on building that before spreading yourself too thin. Of course, you might have to experiment a little to figure out what your niche will be, but finding a niche will give you a fighting chance.
March 24th, 2007
I’m very excited because it looks like I’m going to get to meet up with “friend” who runs Baby Nika out of Canada at the April Int’l textile show in Los Angeles. I put “friend” in quotes because we’ve never actually met in person, but we’ve exchanged a lot of emails and a few phone calls. She has decided to travel to the US because she’s sick of sourcing supplies over the internet and phone, and I’m very excited to meet her. We’ve been on the same path with our businesses from back when we didn’t even have our websites launched 
I’ve been going to this bi-annual textile show for a few years now. I definitely don’t make it up to all of them, but it is an invaluable experience every time I do. Even the first time, when I was an absolute deer in the headlights; that first time I learned so much about how the industry works. Since then, I’ve always had luck finding suppliers w/ low minimums that are willing to work with small design companies.
I have the advantage of proximity, being only a hundred miles away from Los Angeles, but I highly recommend it to anyone who can make the trip. My favorite part is the trends display they have in the lobby. It’s a great overview of the upcoming season’s colors and trends in textiles. It’s also a great launching point to start your day at the show. You can cruise around the tables and make notes of which suppliers carry the fabrics that are catching your attention. These notes can at least give you some basis of where to start.
Then it’s up to the show floor, and when you step out, it’s overwhelming. There are usually wide open halls full of booths and then rooms full of vendors as well. It always helps me to just walk it once. I learned at the KIDshow that everyone has different buying habits. I’m one who likes to walk it and get my bearings. On the first walk around, I will drop in on existing suppliers or companies that I’m already familiar with. Once I’ve done the first walk, I’ll go back and visit the booths that really caught my attention, in addition to any of the booths I want to visit based on my notes from the trends section.
It’s funny, at my first show, I was afraid to ask about minimums because I didn’t want to scream “Newbie” to everyone I met (I did anyways LOL). Now, if I stop in and see a fabric I like, my first two questions are price and minimums. These are the most immediate qualifiers for me. And if they are high, I now have no problem saying we’re relatively new and the minimums are out of our range. Trust me, the vendors appreciate that you’re not wasting their time either. If I really like the fabric, I’ll take their card and make note that I’d like to check them out again when we’re bigger.
The Textile Show is from April 16 - 18. If you follow the link, all of the pictures on the home page are taken in the trend & forcasting area in the lobby.
Also, if any of you out there are looking for suppliers with low minimums, I can point you to some for a wide variety of fabrics from plush micro-fibers to cottons. So feel free to contact me, at the very least I can copy pages from show directory. I can be reached at info@babyfabulous.com.
March 20th, 2007
Wow, where’d I go? This week was so crazy. My husband has started up his high-school season (he coaches volleyball in the afternoons / weekends), and I’m doing a couple of side writing jobs, so the balancing act is just awesome. But, it works. We’re keeping it up, and one of us is still with the kids at all times. My daughter has had to miss a couple of days of school in the last couple of months, because it’s a parent participation pre-school. But, my neighbor has offered to take her with her, her daughter is in the same class. So, that’s incredibly helpful.
We got a surprise review on celebrity-babies.com this week. That sent us a lot of unexpected traffic and
has already led to a few good and flattering offers; these sorts of things are like little blessings, and they seem to come when they are needed the most. 
Another blessing has been finding an amazing local pattern maker / and grader who got our cutie-pants (TM) pattern crafted in 12 months and graded into all the sizes we needed. Now we have cutie pants outfits to ship this week. And then, we have our fall fashions in boutiques- YES!! Going beyond the blankets.
So, this is when it’s up to me to “ship on time”. We’re on it. We’re so on it.
Delivered a blanket set to my dream boutique yesterday. And they were impressed by how well we had the whole process put together. It’s easy baby! That’s the whole point. We’re creating demand. We’re actually creating demand for our only-on-of-its-kind product. It’s amazing to start experiencing the plan working. Actually working.
Back to it. Don’t put off to tomorrow what you can do today.
March 10th, 2007
Previous Posts
